Why You Should Enjoy Trains

There's a term for people who love trains in this country:

"Train otaku."

I don't know if I would call myself that, but I definitely LOVE looking at trains. I'm not too crazy about the model and I can't tell which model of trains is what (yet?), but trains really fascinate me. Not only just the interior, but some trains here in Japan have really amazing views. Not just trains, but I find that buses and even boats can be quite the experience here.

Like Shimonada station in Shikoku:

It's just a normal, local stop along the coastal route of Ehime, but the views of the ocean are absolutely stunning from the station. I haven't taken this train in particular, but the drive down this coast is extremely rewarding.

There are plenty of other trains in Japan that sells its view, like the Seven Stars in Kyushu. Which costs an arm and a leg (omg), but there are slightly cheaper options like the Yufuin no Mori from Fukuoka to Yufuin in Kyushu:

(excuse my photo, this was taken years ago on a very shitty old iphone)

Another train that is a shorter train ride, but offers a somewhat panoramic view of the nature is the Tenku that goes to Koyasan in Wakayama. Or more recently, the Hankyu Kyo-train Garaku from Osaka to Kyoto.

Along with the view, trains like Seven Stars also offer luxury of course, but there's often a lot of interior eyecandy going on as well. Like the newest Kyushu additional, the 36+3 (36ぷらす3). Or 36plus3. The Seven Stars offer luxury travel for multiple days, but the 36plus3 offers the same luxury - except it's only for one day, from one city to another city. Depending on the day you take it, the cities they operate in change. So if you're in Kyushu, and your travel dates align - I would be extremely jealous because just look at this interior porn AND exterior porn:

Such beauty. I can't even.

Not equally as beautiful, but there are definitely lots of local trains that also prides itself in its interior design. In Kansai, the Ao-Matsu that runs daily from Fukuchiyama to Amanohashidate is also extremely handsome. I took this train years ago, and it's still one of the most beautiful and perhaps "cheapest" ride I've been on:

Another type of train every North American should try and experience is the Sleeper Train. Most Sleeper Trains in Japan have been discontinued. Probably most popular amongst them, the Cassiopeia that run from Tokyo to Sapporo, discontinued in 2016. But there is still one Sleeper Train that runs daily in Japan, the Sunrise Seto and Sunrise Izumo.

This trains runs east to west, and splits off to go to Izumo in Shimane, or Takamatsu in Shikoku (or Tokyo if you're going east).

The problem with being in Kansai, and wanting to take this train is that... you only have the option of taking it to Tokyo. This train does not stop in Kansai traveling westbound, which means booking space from Kansai is quite limited. However, I did have the pleasure of riding this to Tokyo a few years back.

View-wise, it's pitch dark out so there's no life-changing sunrise on your way to Tokyo, but the train itself is quite the experience. While I traveled in a private suite, the cheapest and probably the more unique way to do the Sunrise train is the "nobi nobi" seat. You get your own private floor space, and you spend the night just like you would sleeping on a futon on tatami in Japan. I would have loved to try it, but since this is the cheapest seat, it is often the one that gets sold out the quickest.

Definitely worth the experience though, if you are able to book it!

Lastly, the bullet trains. That in itself can be quite an experience since it's extremely fast and convenient. I was more shocked at how many times I had to pop my ear than being excited though, quite frankly. And it's expensive for us residents.

Anyway though! Every few years, JR does change up the design for one of its trains from the Osaka to Hakata route. Right now it's still the Hello Kitty design (don't really have an interest in it), and previously it was the Evangelion theme. I took it from Hakata to Kokura for a total time of 10 minutes, because my poor ass at the time couldn't afford a longer journey.

Here's to some nostalgia:

I really loved the theming for this train. It just fits so well... I wish they had kept it permanently.

There are also a ton of themed non-Shinkansen trains out there in Japan. Most of them are limited time or only operate on holidays or weekends, like this "onsen train"... but if you can align your travels to get on these trains, I think they are very interesting.

There's no better place to explore trains than in Japan, in my opinion. There's so many different kinds, themes, interiors, rail lines (that offer views), and so many different companies that run their own unique trains.

What's your favourite train Japan?

What train would you want to get on that you haven't yet?

Memorable Japanese Accommodations

When folks come to Japan, they're often hoping to get a unique experience out of their stay. Traditionally, mostly. I think a lot of you want to spend money at an hot spring ryokan (Japanese Inn), and splurge for that private in-room hot spring. Which is fair. Especially coming from North America, this type of accommodation is pretty rare but also fascinating all the same.

But if you've already traveled some, and/or you're into hot springs - but you're looking for a bit of a something more to look forward to when Japan might open its borders to tourists again, here are a few of the favourite places I've stayed at in the past.

(note that this is list is not exhaustive, I have A LOT more places I would love to write about but I don't want this to get too long)

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1) Fujiya Hotel

(SIDE NOTE: this is different from the Yumoto Fujiya Hotel)

This is one of those places where I really wasn't sure if I made the right choice in staying at first, and afterwards, still had a bit of mixed feelings about. But I think these thoughts is what makes it kind of top of the memorable list, personally...

This is Fujiya Hotel, in Hakone. Built in the late 1800s, most of the building's structures and rooms were kept in the style of the Meiji Period. A few years back before the hotel's some overhauling, if you had wanted to experience what it felt like to be an aristocrat in the Meiji Era, this hotel would be the full experience of it. The rooms here in Fujiya were probably the cheapest in the Hakone area (where tourists prefer splurging for the hot spring experience, and not a History lesson), but the hotel was elegant right down to its massive Japanese garden hidden away from non-staying guests and exorbitant food options.

But a blast from the past often also means something else...

If it doesn't show in my photo above - yes, it probably was one of the creepiest stays in all of Japan. No, it IS one of the creepiest.

For those of you that get tingly sensations and are hyper sensitive to the "unknown" (yes, this is a nice way of me to refer to our ghostly friends), I think you will understand the feeling of when you enter a building. Your gut just tells you that the place you are entering is absolutely and most definitely haunted. I had this feeling almost the entire time I was here.

Walking down the corridors of this multi-building complex gives me the bejeebies. Even going from the public baths from the B2 floor back up to my room gave me a heart attack, when I ran into a staff member just strolling along doing his job (...or was he a staff member?).

I'm clearly not the only one. There used to be a youtube video that I had watched after my trip of a guest walking the hallways at 2AM, around their "Helen Keller" room.. ominous was probably a huge understatement. This blog is the closest thing I could get to resurface from the dark web. I assure you, those green lights aren't edited (probably from the parking lot like in my photo above).

It is a gorgeous hotel though, no doubt. But one I probably won't be staying in again for awhile.

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2) Iya Onsen Hotel

Iya Valley - part of the hotel property of it

Iya Valley is located in Tokushima Prefecture, right in the heart of Shikoku Island. I had the pleasure of driving through and staying in this area on my way to Kochi. And it is probably one of the cheapest ryokan stays I have ever paid for during any national holiday season.

For an approximate total of $200 per person, it included both a breakfast (you can have a choice of western or Japanese breakfast) and dinner. Both of which were extremely generous in portions, especially with the nabe we had opted for instead of the usual Japanese kaiseki ryori. The change was made prior to our stay with no extra cost, and they were happy to oblige. The service was also excellent too, which isn't necessary, but always a bonus.

Oh and if you're wonder if that was raw chicken in my first picture... yes, it indeed is.

My first raw chicken experience, and survived it. Definitely memorable, as I lived to tell the tale after all!

Included in that price too is your own private in-room outdoor bath with a full view of Iya Valley, and a sizeable, newly renovated room.

That's not even the best part! It's selling point is the other outdoor hot spring baths with access to some walkable parts of the valley, accessible via a cable car that's available to staying guests only. It's also completely self-operated and unmanned, which means you get to play with all the buttons to your heart's content, just like I did in the video below (Baby Yoda would be pleased!).

https://video.wixstatic.com/video/30182a_bafa1ba4e6a048da985e123814e762ed/1080p/mp4/file.mp4

Iya Onsen Hotel was and still is, hands down one the most tranquil, most affordable and best ryokan I've ever stayed at. Definitely come and stay if you can!

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3) Chorakuen

taken from their website because my pictures are old & ugly

Chorakuen is an ryokan in Tamatsukuri Onsen up in... Shimane Prefecture (I wasn't sure if it was Tottori or Shimane for a second there). I don't suppose you have heard of Tamatsukuri Onsen unless you've done research into Shimane or live there, but it is an onsen town that's decently known to a number of locals. It's quite small, and not much to write home about, but this establishment is a bit different from its brother and sister ryokans nearby.

Other than the history behind it, this ryokan has an open air mixed gender bath. It does say that is it the biggest of its kind in the country, but my boyfriend and I kind of have questions about it... I mean, yeah it is pretty damn big. And we definitely haven't been to one this size that's both outdoors AND mixed gender. So maybe?

The website has pictures of their bath, so you can be the judge of it yourself.

But yeah, let's talk about this mixed gender bath. It's not exactly something you can readily find nowadays, since most ladies don't peruse the mixed side in my experience. But as someone who goes to hot springs a lot with my significant other, and gets bored easily, being able to stay together without paying extra money is fun for us. The good thing at Chorakuen for the ladies is that, even if you get shy, they provide a slip-on robe thing for you to wear - and for the men, some filmsy disposable shorts (which is a bit pointless because the men's change room can be viewed from the bath??). Because of this, it attracted a lot of couples during our stay, and everyone seems to just be enjoying the company and relaxing.

The bath is also only opened to staying guests at all times of the day, so the bath never really gets overcrowded.

The catch though? This was probably one of my more expensive stays.... but there are cheaper options in the town. It just means you will not be able to peruse the biggest mixed gender bath in all of Japan, unfortunately.

The town itself is very quiet and unique though. If you like quiet, off-the-beaten-path type onsen towns, I do recommend Tamatsukuri Onsen.

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4) Mizno Hotel

Mizno Hotel (or Mizuno, probably more correct in Japanese terms) is what I think people would consider a Boutique Hotel. It's not a ryokan by any means, and let me just put it out there - it is probably one of the most expensive stays I've splurged for in all of my travels here in Japan. I also splurged on this during New Years, making this effectively (to some of you), a very stupid idea.

But 99% of the time... if you pay for something here in Japan that's not within your normal price range, they often deliver and make up for it in services or some kind of amenities.

And heck yes do they deliver!

I mean, otherwise it wouldn't make this list right? I mean, yeah I guess splurging and going broke is definitely memorable, but that's not what you guys are here for - especially if you've made it this far down the blog (a round of applause please!!).

But this is what I splurged for on New Years:

A completely unobstructed view of Mount Fuji and Kawaguchiko on a winter's day. Admittedly, I did have a bit of buyer's remorse when I first arrived at the hotel, since it was particularly cloudy that day. But the next morning, we were rewarded with sunshine and absolutely gorgeous views. I would 100% do it again.

The food here was exceptional. It was easily one of the best hotel meals I've had in terms of taste, presentation and overall execution and service. I which I had more pictures to show, but this was the only one I still had on me. Excuse my dumb face.

Definitely memorable and worth the money!

And that's it, folks. Those are my crème de la crème stays here in Japan. What are some of your favourite Japanese stays? Tell me in the comments or tweet me at @monochromic!

Speaking of accommodations, check out another one of my blogs on another one of my unique stays on Rabbit Island (Okunoshima) if you haven't already.

Thanks for reading!

[Blogtober Special] Moving Abroad (Japan) as an Escape

Many foreigners move to Japan for very similar reasons. They want to teach English abroad. They need a job and work experience. They want to travel and explore. They want to go and live in Japan, experience the culture.

Whatever your motivation is, I only have one advice for aspiring foreigners:

Do not come to Japan looking for an escape from life.

Moving abroad will not and does not magically solve your problems in your home country.

Sure, it seems like a good idea. Maybe you have just lost your job, or you're had multiple failed relationships, or someone close to you passed away, or maybe you had just graduated with a degree you don't even want to pursue a career in... And you're miserable. You're lost. Your family has left you to fend for yourself. You're in debt from school. You don't have a lot of friends at home so why not? Why not go to a new country and make new friends? Heck, there's all these teaching jobs in Japan everywhere! You can just get a new job, and start fresh.

So you come to Japan. New country, new scenery, new language to learn.

Everything is dandy in the first two weeks. You love it here. Work orientation just finished and you'll start your new job. Everything's great.

One month in – your job is still new. All the students treat you like a king/queen. All the teachers are super nice and helpful, and they seem to want to be friends with you and want to get to know you. On the weekends, you travel out to new places, drink a bit at your local bar and meet new folks. Practice a bit of Japanese. Still great.

Month two and three kicks in. New job is still challenging. But you're starting to settle in. Students and teachers are starting to go back into their normal routine. There's still new places to explore around you. Maybe you go out to the nearby city more often and drink, meet more new people. Life is good.

Month four, five and six. Some of your past is starting to catch up to you again. You can't seem to find a bond between the people you meet at the bars. Your job is starting to get boring – you're teaching kids who seem to have little to no motivation to be in school. The scenery around you is become all too familiar. Some days you're force to stay home because you don't have the money to spend out drinking. And on the days you are staying home, there is no one to talk to.

Your spirits start to dampen at this point. Everything seems like a waste of time. All the things you had hope for in Japan seems so pointless again.

And once again you're back to square one.

Moving to a country for work demands a person to have a strong willpower. A certain type of mental stability is necessary to survive in a foreign country. This is especially true in Japan, and it is especially the case if you do not have a strong mastery of the native language (Japanese).

Moving to a country will not suddenly make new friends appear.

If you have had trouble looking for friends before, it will not suddenly become easier. Many people in Japan only speak Japanese. Even if they can speak English, most will prefer to speak Japanese as it is most comfortable. Your pool of English speakers for friendship shrinks as it is a foreign country. People form their own cliques very quickly and you'll be left behind again.

Chances are, when your past comes to haunt you again, you will revert back to old habits that led you to become miserable back home in the first place.

Don't get me wrong – I'm not saying you cannot have one or two of these reasons as a motivation for moving abroad. I think it's normal if people want to have a change of pace for a few minor things that are not going right in their lives. I too had a few “push factors” that made me want to leave Canada. I was bored of my surrounding. I was ready to move out and not have to deal with my overprotective parents. I was a fresh graduate and lost duckling wandering around looking for career options.

However, when one or two of these things pile up and escalates, taking a toll on your life and your mental health, moving to a new country will not make these issues disappear. The problems will only be magnified if and when you return home.

Likewise, your mental stability may even deteriorate more after living abroad, making it much more difficult to tackle the original issues in the first place.

Japan is not Disneyland (even though we have two Disney parks in Tokyo). It's not a place of magic and miracles. Fairy godmothers will not swoop in and tap away your mental illness, your painful past memories. No magical anime girls will come falling from the sky making your dreams come true or give you a life of harem. Japan is a place just as real as any other place in the world. Moving here will not make your life suddenly easier or better.

Only you yourself can fix your own problems. And the solution is not by moving to a new country.

Reevaluate your choices. Rethink the reasons why you want to move abroad.

Truly ask yourself this: “Why Japan?”

If the push factor outweigh all the pull factors of Japan, I would reconsider your choice to leave.

Get your life together back home first. Take a few weeks and travel. Travel to the destination you want to live abroad in if you have the cash flow. Get a good feel of the place, talk to locals, relax and refresh yourself.

Talk to a professional back home. Don't make rash decisions to leave and resettle in a country when you're not ready. It will only worsen your current situation in the future, and wasting your time in the end.

I promise you, once you have a more stable lifestyle, it will make your experience living abroad much more positive.

All the best and see you in Japan someday!